Fledglings

The birds who live in my decorative birdhouses are glad that horrible hot streak has cooled down, I know I am. It is fledgling season around here. This might be my favorite part of the summer. The garden birdbath fountain is full of colorful babies just learning how to swim and fly. I find it interesting that they seem to be larger than their parents.

The baby Stellar's Jays are hysterical at the bird house feeders and they keep falling into the water fountain. For some reason their little topknots don't work yet and I laugh at them for having bad hair (feather) days. It really is the only way I can tell this year's crop of babies from the adults.

I also have a huge flock of evening gross beaks that call my yard home. They don't live in any of the wooden bird houses because they like to live 200 ft up in the tops of the local conifers. But they feed at the decorative feeders 6 or 7 at a time and swim in the garden fountain and birdbath. The dads are beautifully colored with white, grey, black and touches of bright yellow. They have a chevron of bright yellow over their eyes which make them look like they are wearing Varnet sunglasses. They compete with the Stellar's jays for food at all the decorative bird feeders and for water at the birdbath and the pond. The ladies aren't nearly as pretty but they are all big clowns and love attention.

I went to drive off the other day, when I heard a scritch, scritch, scritch on the roof of my truck. I realized it was one of the babies, suddenly it slid down my windshield and rested on a wiper pecking at the window. I knew he wasn't too well versed in flying skills yet so I didn't want to just drive off. I got out to convince him he needed to move over to the bird house feeder, the fence or maybe the birdbath water fountain. He almost got on to my hand but changed his mind and hopped over to the fence. I got to drive off laughing at his antics.

About The Author
Jean Woods
After working for over 20 years in an office, I decided to work at home and sell something I really like. To me there is nothing like the sound of birds chirping in the morning. So after lots of pondering I chose to help them out and provide them with their own home at http://www.birdbathplus.com

Buy a Bird Cage

There isn't a more important purchase to be made for your new bird, then your bird's cage. Well-made cages of high quality materials are expensive but are often safer and will be worth it over the life span of your bird.

We may have the best intentions to let our bird spend most of his time out of the cage. But there will still be times when he needs to be in his cage. If you make the right choice right from the start, you will allow your bird as much freedom of movement and exercise as possible. The birds tail will not touch either the back or the bottom of the cage while sitting on the perch.

The most important dimension in a cage is width. A guideline is to choose a width at least 1 ½ times your bird's wingspan. Tall and narrow cages may look nice, but it doesn´t make it possible for birds to fly and move in their natural style, which is side to side not up and down. But for large parrots, taller cages are fine since the extra height does provide exercise by climbing although they still need to be wide to allow stretching and room to play.

Bar spacing is also important because inappropriate bar spacing can result in injury to your bird. Avoid cages with fancy scroll work or intricate designs, and beware of doors, latches and other cage parts that could trap your bird.

Once you have selected the appropriate size, you will want to make sure you have selected all the options necessary to give your pet a healthy environment as soon as you receive it.

Let's face it--birds are slobs. They don't care if their seeds are scattered far and wide. They don't mind if there's something floating in their water. And they have no qualms about relieving themselves whenever and wherever the mood strikes! Without consistent cleaning, your bird's area can look like a disaster.

The most important factor to having a bird is to always clean out it's cage. Try to obtain a birdcage that is conveniently easy to clean and disinfect too.

Copyright © 2006 Lena Hilltorp

About The Author
Lena Hilltorp is a freelance publisher based in Sweden. She publishes articles and reports and provides Bird Cage resources on http://www.bird-cage.info/
Large Custom Bird Cages: http://www.bird-cage.info/largecustombirdcages.html

Dealing With House Training Your Dog

House training is one of those issues that every dog owner must grapple with. In most cases house training is the first major milestone in the relationship between owner and dog, and it can sometimes be difficult and confusing for owner and dog alike.

The best house training procedures are those that use the dog's own instincts to the owner's advantage. These strategies take into account the dog's reluctance to soil the spots where he eats and sleeps. This is the concept behind den training and crate training. Dogs are very clean animals, and in nature they always avoid using their dens as toilet areas.

These kinds of natural training methods generally work very well, for both puppies and older dogs. Naturally, older, larger dogs will need a larger area for their den, and crate training is generally best used for puppies and small dogs.

When house training a dog or a puppy, however, it is important to pay close attention to the signals the dog is sending. It is also important to be consistent when it comes to feeding times, and to provide the dog with ready access to the toilet area you establish on a regular basis.

It is important as well to never try to rush the process of house training. While some dogs are naturally easier to train, most puppies and adult dogs will experience at least one or two slip ups during the house training process. When these accidents occur, it is important to not get mad and punish the dog. Accidents during house training usually mean that the owner is trying to move too fast, or that the dog has been left alone for too long. In this case, it is best to just take a step back and start the process again.

It is also important for the owner to reward the dog enthusiastically when it does its business in the appointed area. The dog should learn to associate doing its business in its toilet area with good things like treats, rewards and praise.

During the house training process, the den area starts out very small, often as small as half of a small room in the beginning. As the dog learns to control his bladder and bowels better, and the owner learns to anticipate the dog's toilet needs, the den area can be slowly expanded. It is important not to make the den area too large too soon. The den area must be expanded slowly in order for the house training process to move along smoothly.

It is important for the dog to be properly introduced to its den. Many dogs, particularly those who have never been confined before, such as those who have spent their lives as outdoor dogs, may react to the den area as if it is a prison, and constantly whine, cry and try to escape the den. It is important that the dog learn to accept its den as a home and not a cage.

One problem many dog owners overlook when house training a dog is that of boredom. Boredom is actually the root cause of many behavior problems in dogs, including chewing and other destructive behaviors. Boredom can also be the root cause of problems with house training. Dogs that are bored often consume large amounts of water during the day, and this excess water consumption can lead to the need to urinate often, even in its den area. Since soiling the den area goes against the dog's nature, he can quickly become confused and frightened, thereby setting the house training program back even further.

To prevent the dog from becoming bored when you are away from home, be sure to provide him with lots of different kinds of toys, as well as a safe and secure place to sleep. In addition, a vigorous period of play time can help the dog sleep while you are away. In addition, playing with the dog in its den area will help him bond with this area and recognize it as a safe, secure home.

About The Author
Burt Cotton
http://www.dogtrainingnews.org

Simple Method To House Train Your Dog

How long should it take to house train a dog? It depends on several factors; your dedication, and the time you are willing to put into the training process. Other important factors include your dogs maturity and intelligence.

Dogs are instinctively clean animals. If at all possible they will avoid soiling the areas where they sleep and eat. Dogs are very much creatures of habit, and they tend to pick certain areas to do their "business", and these areas become habitual voiding areas. A good example of this: dogs that eliminate on grass or dirt will always prefer grass or dirt. They will not cooperate when concrete or gravel is involved. You can use this fact when training your dog.

I recommend the owner establish a living area for the dog as soon as you bring the dog into your home. While the dog is getting to know its new environment, it is smart to give the new family member a small space of its own. Dogs are pack animals by nature, and enjoy having the comfort of a den. I recommend this area be a small area, such as a kitchen or hallway, and an area that you can gate, when need be. (I do not recommend that crate-training or bathrooms be used as the small area.) I look at a crate for what it is; a cage.

Set up a good territory for your dog and a comfortable bed (that eventually can be moved to what ever room in the house you prefer your pet to sleep), and toys to play with. All meals should be offered in the dog's special space. It is very important that you spend time with the dog in its space. So make time to play with the dog in its own territory. This area is meant to be only a transitional space. The dogs' rights are being respected, yet at the same time the dog is getting to know a new way of life, a life that will soon include the run of a house, and a human family.

The next step is to establish an area outdoors that you wish to be your dog's toilet area. Remember, dogs will develop a habit very easily, so make sure you put some thought into the choice.

When house training a dog, you must take the dogs age into consideration. Most good breeders won't let their pups go to their new home until they are three to four months old, and are well ready to be house trained. My method of house training is tried and true. It is actually very simple, but tedious.

When bringing your new dog home, before entering the house, take the pup to the area you have designated to be his special voiding area. Let the dog play a bit in this area. With luck, the pup will work up a void. This is the best scenario. Start right off by telling your new puppy, "that's a good dog." Dogs love to be verbally rewarded. You have begun to train your dog.

It's time to bring the puppy into its new home. Introduce the dog to its special space. The first day will be hectic. Keep a close eye on the pup. If you see any tell-tale signs of "I am going to go," rush that dog outside to its voiding area.

It is smart to set up a feeding schedule. It makes it a bit easier to approximate when your dog will have a bowel movement. If possible, follow the breeder's schedule for your dog, keeping the dog on the same food it is used to eating. You will notice the dog will be fairly regular with bowel movements after eating. By rule of thumb most dogs will want to void shortly after eating. Most dogs are like alarm clocks.

Rule of thumb: take the dog out to void every two hours. (Waking hours that is). At this point I am sure you are probably saying to yourself, most dogs don't go that often! And you are right, they don't. This method of training may be a real inconvenience for a few days, but the rewards of a well trained happy dog are well worth the added trips you will be taking outside.

As I mentioned, the dog will not void each time, but he will be learning quickly that this is "the place to go".

When the dog voids, make a big old fuss. Reward with petting, verbal reward, and yes, some of the time a "goodie." Don't always offer a food treat; the dog should learn that treats do not always come after a void.

If accidents occur, take the dog outside with only a low tone verbal scold. Don't carry on terribly. Never swat or hit a dog to show displeasure. Most of the time when a dog voids in the house, it is due to human error. The human was not around or not paying attention to the dog's voiding signals. Dogs are clean animals, with a good amount of dignity. This dignity can be belittled out of a dog. So have patience when training your dog. The rewards will be great.

Nighttime Training. I suggest putting down papers as far from the bed and food areas as possible. You might be surprised with the fact that after a very few days your dog will not void at night, but wait until morning to get out to their voiding area. You see, they learn quickly that they can trust and depend on you to get them to their voiding area, and much prefer waiting then voiding in their indoor space.

This method of house training as I stated can be hectic for a few days. But I have had great success training my own dogs with this method. By following these few and simple directions, I am sure you will find it not only easy, but a speedy method to house training your new dog. As a rule, in a week's time, the dog is ready to be integrated into the home.

In regards to leaving your dog alone in the house, I recommend that they be gated in their special area until you are well sure they won't mess in the house.

Most healthy dogs can hold urine for up to 6 hours. Puppies can hold for up to 3 hours.

Until your dog is old enough and has developed a strong habit of eliminating in one area, it is very important that you accompany your dog outside every time they void. As the dog becomes older and more obedient, you will be able to let it out on its own to void. The dog should be trained to come in when called. Note: I recommend no dog be let free to roam outdoors without a fenced yard. Even the smartest dog can bolt when the right stimulus runs in its path. Remember, dogs have great hunting instincts.

Take Note: If you have a dog that has previously been house trained, and all of a sudden is having accidents, you should not try to retrain with this method. I suggest the dog be seen by a veterinarian. Your pet could be showing signs of illness, possibly infection, which needs medical attention, not re-training.

About The Author
Sharon Stajda is a proud owner of a well trained Westie. For more dog training tips, visit the following url: http://www.oldandsold.com/articles02/dog_training1.shtml

How To Litter Train Your Kitten

Cats are naturally clean creatures. Teaching them to use the litter box encourages this good behavior. They will continue to use this litter box unless it gets dirty. Here are a few tips on getting your cat to use the litter box all of the time.

Pick out a litter box that would be right for you and your cat. There are various types of litter box's, there are big ones and small ones there is also a automatic cleaning box that has a rake that rakes the dirty litter in a storage bag. Some people use the disposable litter box's that come with the litter already inside so you don't have to mess with the litter.

Finding the right cat litter is something you can do easily. There are a lot of different types of cat litter; there are scented litter and non scented litter. There is also litter that will clump up after your cat does his/her deed making it easier to scoop up. You should change your cats litter box at least every other day to keep your house smelling fresh and clean. Finding the right cat litter your cat likes can take a while. Your cat may not like a change in the type of litter you have in their box and this will cause them to go in unwanted places as well.

Picking out the right type of cat food can make a difference in training your cats. Remember cat food is for cats not dogs and dog food is for dogs not kitties. There are many types of cat food there is dry food, soft food and canned food. Try not to give your cats milk we all know they like it but it also leaves a big mess in the litter box. You want to use a variety of foods you can also use some of these foods as a treat to reward your cats for doing something good like using the litter box. You can control your cats input and output for successful litter training. If you play with your cat 15 minutes before it eats and then let the cat eat. You will be able to judge when your cat will be ready to go into the litter box. Not letting the cat leave the litter box area when you know their bladder is full, will help the cat realize what it is that you are trying to teach them to do. Finding the right cat litter your cat likes can take a while. Your cat may not like a change in the type of litter you have in their box and this will cause them to go in unwanted places as well.

How to toilet train your cats. First make sure the litter box is in a safe and clean area and away from lots of traffic but be sure your cats have access to it. Make sure cats also know where the litter box is often showing him/her. If you have more than one cat make sure you have more than one litter box cats don't like to share the same. Also make sure the litter box is cleaned once a day. There is a scoop you can use to scoop out the soiled litter. You should put in about 1 inch of litter in the box is plenty. Never yell or hit your cats if he/she has an accident just simply tell her no and place her in the litter box.

Do not place the litter box near his/her food. Cats do not like to eat in the same place they have urinated. Never clean the litter box if you are pregnant because it contains toxoplasmosis in the fecal witch could cause harm to your baby. Cats will urinate on clean places such as your couch or carpet when they have a dirty litter box. Making sure that it is clean is very important in training your cat.

Cats need attention and sometimes will leave deposits of unwanted urine and feces in places, due to lack of attention. If your cat feels neglected they will get mad and do things to make you pay attention to them. You should spend daily time with your cat to make them feel loved and wanted. They will respond much better when you take the time to show them attention.

Male cats should be neutered as they like to spray to mark their territory. So you should make sure that they are neutered so they don't make any more mess. You can use vinegar and water to make the smell go away. You can use half water and half vinegar to clean this up. This will keep your cat from returning to that spot to use again.

About The Author
Burt Cotton
http://www.catcarenews.org

Taking Your Arthritic Dog To The Vet

If your dog suffers from morning stiffness, has trouble climbing the stairs, and appears to be less active now that he's getting older, it may be that he's suffering from arthritis. Even if he exhibits only one of these traits, it's time to get your dog in to see the vet. Here's what to expect on your first visit.

Your vet will begin with a full visual and physical examination of your dog. The doctor will check your dog's body for swollen lymph nodes, listen to his heart and lungs, and check your dog's ears and skin. Like any general physical exam of your dog, your vet will also inspect the dog's gums and eyes.

After this initial examination, your vet will look for any easily detectable signs of arthritis, beginning with the spine, limbs and neck. A series of range of motion tests will check your dog's flexibility. This process will help uncover any old injuries, any problems with the ligaments, and any obvious arthritic symptoms. It will also help uncover any fever, bacteremia, posture, gait, and signs of inflammation.

Assuming your dog displays signs of arthritis, the next step in the process will be to learn more through some diagnostic testing. This will likely involve drawing blood first. With some relatively simple blood analysis, the vet will be able to determine if your dog is allergic to the anesthesia required to take X-rays (the next step in diagnostics), and will also be able to make sure there isn't anything else going on inside your dog that might not be obvious. Finally, the vet will want to use the results of the blood tests as a baseline for future testing to make sure the arthritis drug therapy is effective.

X-rays will help the vet detect the presence of arthritis in your dog and help determine the seriousness of the disease. To position your dog properly for the radiographs, most likely he'll need to be sedated. X-rays can also detect any fractures or cancers that might be the underlying cause of your dog's arthritis symptoms.

If it is determined that your dog has arthritis, the next step in the process is to design a treatment approach. New medications are now available that can dramatically assist your dog in leading a healthy and pain-free life. However, all dogs react differently to medications. Therefore, your vet will likely recommend a series of treatment trials. This simply means your dog will be given several medications on a trial basis to see which is most effective.

It's always difficult to see your dog suffering with the pain of arthritis. But it doesn't have to be that way. A trip to the vet can quickly determine whether or not arthritis is the culprit, and if it is, a treatment program to alleviate your dog's pain can be started right away.

About The Author
David Silva is webmaster of About Arthritis Today (aboutarthritistoday.com), a website dedicated to disseminating valuable information on the symptoms, treatments, and many forms of arthritis.

Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?

* Why does my aquarium stink?

When the mosses mix with the water, the water becomes dense and sticky. Mosses live through in the oxygen in the water. They excrete carbon dioxide that causes the water to become stinky.

* Why is my aquarium green?

The green colors that appear in your aquarium are mosses. They are water plants that serve as foods for the fishes. Sometimes the green pigment will mix with the water causing it to blur.

* How do I clean my aquarium?

When your aquarium already has noticeable mosses around it and already emits an unpleasant smell, it's time to clean your aquarium. Cleaning an aquarium is as easy as washing dishes in the sink. All you have to do is remove the fish in your aquarium first. Transfer them temporarily to a bowl or a pail with water. After transferring the fish into the bowl remove and discard the stinky water in your aquarium. Remove all other equipment in your aquarium including rocks and accessories.

Wipe your aquarium with a smooth surface sponge so that the glass will not be scratched. You may use other glass cleaning substances but be sure to rinse the glass thoroughly before putting the fish back in. The substances you have used may contaminate your pets and can damage their skin. If you use tap water to refill your tank, be sure to treat it first with a chorine neutralizer. Again, the chlorine in tap water can damage fish and frog's skin.

* What cleaning supplies do I need for my aquarium?

Cleaning your aquarium does not need complicated tools, supplies and processes. All you need are smooth-surface sponges, a small amount of glass cleaner and water. A small brush may also be used to clean your aquarium accessories. Soap may also be ideal to use instead of glass cleaner. Just be sure that whatever substance you use you clean thoroughly. As mentioned above, the cleaners may contaminate and damage your pet. So, be sure to rinse the aquarium well.

* What do I do with the fish when I clean my aquarium?

In cleaning your aquarium, you have to transfer your fish into a bowl with water that has been treated in advance with a chlorine neutralizer. Use a net to transfer fish to avoid accidents. Catch the fish and slowly transfer them into the bowl of treated water.

About The Author
Addison Ercanbrack is a regular contributor to aquarium and fish-related resources such as http://www.AquariumsTips.com.

Treats That Pooch CANNOT Eat!

Anyone who has ever owned a dog will know that they are not particularly fussy eaters, to put it mildly! Anything and everything that can be consumed will pass through pooch's digestive system at some point, and by no means will all of it be food as we know it!

Your dog also has a very well developed sense of smell, so that what he or she considers to be "foodstuffs" (yesterdays chicken bones in the kitchen trash can, for example), stuff that you may believe is hidden (i.e. out of sight) is as evident to your dog as the nose his face. Rest assured that your dog will find anything that can be eaten, wherever it is!

Ninety-nine percent of the time, this will not be a major problem. An inconvenience maybe when tonight's dinner that was cooling in the kitchen miraculously disappears, but not a major drama.

The problem is that dogs (obviously) have little or no knowledge of whether what they eat is good or bad for them, nor do they care. Reverting to the previous example, every human probably knows that, whilst beef or lamb bones are a delectable treat for Fido, chicken bones are a definite no-go, owing to their tendency to splinter and stick in the dogs throat.

However, not every dog owner is aware that some of the everyday foodstuffs that we consume and take for granted, and are happy to give to our families, could be very dangerous, even potentially lethal, if given to your dog.

For example, were you aware that the simple chocolate bar that is stashed at the back of your fridge might actually constitute a potentially deadly hazard for your four legged friend? This is potentially a major problem, as the majority of dogs seem especially partial to chocolate, in my experience.

Whilst it has been recently reported that it may be high in human-friendly antioxidants, the problem for your dog is that chocolate contains various chemicals, which can be highly dangerous, if not lethal.

Sadly, consumption of relatively minor traces of these chemicals can cause your dog such serious medical problems as increased heart rate, palpitations and so on. Large amounts could even lead to total cardiac failure, seizures, coma and eventually death.

Of course, we have to keep this in perspective and it is extremely unlikely that one small piece of chocolate given as a "treat" every now and then will harm your dog in any way. However, be aware that different breeds of dogs show different levels of resistance to the chemicals in chocolate, and that the dogs size and weight would also be a factor to consider. Whilst a pound of the wrong kind of chocolate might kill a smaller dog, it may merely cause a Bull Mastiff or a Doberman to have a day or two of digestive discomfort, and no doubt one or two unpleasant "accidents" along the way!

The simple answer is the obvious one, so don't give the family pet huge amounts of chocolate! At the same time, take precautions to minimize the risks, by making sure that any chocolate in the house is stored above the dogs "forage level" and that your family members, especially young children, know not to give their chocolate away!

There are a few other goods that we consider to be food that, again, may not be too good for the family dog. Some strains of mushroom, for example, can cause your pet problems (liver and kidney damage, abdominal pain) and, whilst garlic is extremely good for humans, it can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs.

The bottom line is, do not assume that just because you can eat it, so can your dog.

Whilst he will regularly devour a host of things that you would never go near, understand that there are a few things that your digestive system handles without problems that your dog just cannot cope with!

For more dog caring and training hints, tips and suggestions, visit my site at http://webbiz99.com/dogtraining/index.html

About The Author
Steve Cowan is an Asia based businessman and writer,as well as an international racing driver and full time father.To discover more,visit his blog -What's New Today,Stanley?- at http://webbiz99.com/

Choosing a Shetland Sheepdog Breeder

First of all, the most important thing to remember is not to buy from a pet store. Ever! The puppies available at pet stores usually come from "puppy mills", where they receive less than adequate health care, to say the least, and are extremely prone to health and heredity problems. Health guarantees are often insuffient, or are simply not honored. The puppy mills producing these animals usually use bad breeding practices, such as ignoring potential (or known!) hereditary defects, selecting for looks only, neglecting temperament in breeding decisions, and not providing proper health care and cleansliness of breeding pairs, pregnant and nursing mothers, or puppy litters. Puppies may also be removed from their mother too early, resulting in even more long-term personality problems than the puppy was already born with. They are then often neglected and sometimes mistreated while waiting to be sold.

That being said, most of these problems are not isolated to pet stores. Many people make the mistake of buying directly from the puppy mill. A good rule of thumb is to visit the kennels personally before making a purchase decision. Are the animals clean? Do they appear healthy? Well socialized? Shelties, like all animals, and people, for that matter, have distinct personalities. Some Shelties are shy, some are barky, and some are naturally nervous, especially if they are kept kenneled outdoors. However, a Sheltie should never be aggressive. This is a sign of bad breeding, and any indication of aggression (other than a protective mother with new puppies, of course) should prompt you to get in your car and drive away immediantly! Are there so many animals that proper care seems impossible? Feces piling up, uneaten food, empty water bowls, and extremely smelly animals are more reasons to run. No breeder with an average number of dogs can keep all of their Shelties perfectly groomed all of the time. But the dogs should be reasonably clean, free of mats, debris, and odor. Most, if not all, of the animals should have been thoroughly brushed within the past week or so, and bathed within the past 2 months. It is usually pretty easy to spot a Sheltie who has not been regularly groomed, by the condition of their coat. Please do not confuse normal shedding with neglect, though! If you are concerned about the coat condition of any of the breeder's dogs, don't hesitate to ask them about it.

Even if the kennel does not appear to be a puppy mill, and is clean, there could be problems with the breeder. Can the breeder provide references upon request? Do they answer your questions in an informed, cooperative manner? Do they appear knowledgable about hereditary diseases and problems associated with the breed? Are they willing to discuss the flaws of their puppies and adults? (No dog is perfect, and a breeder who is unwilling to openly discuss flaws is another reason to run). If the animal is purebred, can they offer a pedigree? What type of contract, if any, is required? A pet puppy should only be sold under a spay/neuter contract. If the puppy is being sold as a show/breeder prospect, the breeder should be able to point out the virtues that make this puppy worth showing/breeding. By the same token, they should be able to tell you why a puppy is being sold as a pet. Does it simply have an undesirable characteristic such as large ears, or round eyes, or is there a structural flaw such as an over or under-bite (could lead to dental problems), or a heaing/vision problem. Perhaps it is not suited for the show ring because of personality quirks. None of these things make a puppy less desirable as a companion, but they do keep her out of the show ring, and, hopefully, the whelping box. Another unpleasant, but necessary question to ask: What happens if the puppy does not work out for you? Perhaps a divorce or illness or allergy will prevent you from keeping the animal someday. Will the breeder take the dog back? Or will you be forced to put the dog in a rescue or shelter, or worse, the pound? Noone wants to face that possibility when buying a puppy, but it is extremely important that the breeder be willing to take responsibilty for the animals they have bred.

Now that you have thought of some questions for the breeder, let's talk about the questions they should be asking you. A responsible breeder will want alot of information from you, such as they ages of your children. Are they accustomed to dogs? Are you familiar with the breed? Where will the puppy sleep? What do you plan to feed him/her? What type of training techniques to you plan to use? (They should also offer suggestions if needed). Do you have a fence? If not, how do you plan to keep the animal safe? These are just a few of the questions a responsible breeder will ask. They should also offer brushing lessons and grooming tips. A puppy should not be sold without a signed contract, registration papers, health guarantee, shot/health record, and breeder-contact information, as well as feeding, grooming, and general care instructions, and at least a couple of days worth of food.

One of the best things about a good breeder is that they are almost always willing to recommend a fellow breeder when necessary. If you decide not to buy one of their puppies, they should never hesitate to refer you to another breeder who may have what you are looking for. If they hesitate, that is a red flag. Are they not familiar with area breeders? Why not? Are they reluctant due to injured pride, or hurt feelings? Perhaps they have a poor reputation with other breeders, and fear what a good breeder may say about them. (A good breeder, like any good person, of course, should remember the old addage-"If you have nothing nice to say, say nothing" but that may not always be the case). Sometimes, unfortunately, we must recommend that you do NOT use a certain irresponsible breeder. We prefer, though, to simply recommend that you DO use a certain responsible breeder.

Don't hesitate to ask friends, family, coworkers, vets, other breeders and dog-owners, or even strangers at the vet's office or pet-supply store for references. Searching ads and websites can be informative, but nothing can compare to a kennel visit, or at the very least, a phone call. Many breeders with websites, such as myself, must be contacted initially by email. After that, the breeder should be willing, eager actually, to meet you in person, or at least speak with you by phone. They should also be willing to provide current photos in the meantime, and pedigrees when requested. Gut instincts and first impressions can go a long way in selecting a breeder. If you feel that something is amiss, it probably is. Run immediantly, and find a different breeder, no matter how cute the puppy may be!

About The Author
Heather Bethune is a Shetland Sheepdog breeder located in Georgia. She breeds for show, agility, and companionship, and offers training and grooming assistance as well. Visit www.bethuneshelties.com or contact the author at heather@bethuneshelties.com for more information on all aspects of buying or owning a Sheltie.

Dog Worming

Regular worming is essential to protect your dog against internal parasites. This involves giving it preparations in liquid or tablet form. Adult dogs should be wormed at least once a year, and at least once every six months if in contact with children. Dogs showing any signs of infection should be wormed immediately and all breeding bitches should be wormed prior to mating.

Roundworms.

Several of these parasites affect dogs but the most important are the ones that belong to the Ascarid family, and live in the small intestine. Other roundworms infest the large intestine, blood vessels and respiratory tract.

Ascarids feed on digesting food in the dog's gut, and are particularly harmful to puppies. They penetrate a puppies gut wall and pass via the blood to the liver and then to the lungs. From there they crawl up the trachea to be coughed up and swallowed, again ending up in the gut. Infected puppies may develop :-

Hepatitis, pneumonia, fits, and obstruction to the gut, so regular treatment is vital.

As the puppy gets older most of the worms travel to the muscles, where they form cysts. These lie dormant until the puppy bitch becomes pregnant. They then migrate to the puppies lungs, and this is why virtually every puppy is born with roundworm, and must be wormed regularly.

How Roundworms Affect Humans.

These worms can infect humans, and in a very low number of cases, cause disease. Good hygiene and common sense concerning children and puppies should control the problem.

Tapeworms.

The tapeworm tickle the dog's anus and make the dog drag it's rear end along the floor. If you see any worm segments in your dog's faeces, treat it as soon as possible.

As a dog lover myself, I treat my own pets at least twice a year. Worming tablets can be bought cheaply at your local supermarket or petshop, so there's no excuse for not treating your own pet on a regular basis.

Thank you for reading my article. I do hope it's been enjoyable.

About The Author
Author and dog lover John Moore...please use my link: http://www.pet-dog-cat.com
information218@aol.com

Early Shih Tzu Puppy Stimulation

The first sense of a Shih Tzu puppy is "scent." The newborn Shih Tzu puppy will be able to smell the scent of the breeder immediately after the sac is broken. The Shih Tzu breeder is familiar with litters of Shih Tzu puppies before their eyes open. Up until the Shih Tzu puppy opens its eyes they became familiar with their breeder's scent through their dam's coat. Shih Tzu puppies learn where there is and is not a place of milk and nourishment on their mother through scent.

It is advisable that only the Shih Tzu breeder handle puppies during their first two weeks. This does limit the Shih Tzu puppy's reality of the world around them; however, it is practicing sound early responsible care practices. As Shih Tzu puppies begin to open their eyes they become aware of differences in people. Because of this awareness, a very young Shih Tzu puppy may act violently the first time handled by anyone other than their breeder. The Shih Tzu puppy may begin to struggle or scream to be free. It really is not necessary for other people besides the breeder to handle Shih Tzu puppies during this very early period of their lives. If a Shih Tzu puppy is frightening by early interactions with other people it could set the stage for later mistrust toward all humans. It is therefore extremely important that all early contacts with a Shih Tzu puppy be positive. Once a barrier of distrust is instilled in a newborn Shih Tzu puppy, the puppy can become hard to work with and sometimes even unmanageable as adults. Limiting contact with humans also aids in the spreading of germs to newborn Shih Tzu puppies.
There is a proper way to hold a very young Shih Tzu puppy. You should not "swoop" a Shih Tzu puppy quickly into your arms, or hold it at arm's length. Do not ever pick up a Shih Tzu puppy by its legs, ears, tail or scruff. Severe and even irreparable damage can result.

Use the following steps to pick up and hold a newborn and very young Shih Tzu puppy:

1. Place your hands firmly around the Shih Tzu puppy's body making it feel secure before it is lifted from the whelping box.

2. Immediately begin to snuggle the Shih Tzu puppy closely to your neck, chest or face area, letting the Shih Tzu puppy smell your familiar scent. Here is where the Shih Tzu puppy will feel the reassuring rhythm of your breathing and your heartbeat. The Shih Tzu puppy will remain relaxed. The Shih Tzu puppy will have less tendency to struggle against others first holding them if you will practice these steps from the beginning.

In general, you should not place very young Shih Tzu puppies in your lap, at least until after they begin to walk. They do not feel secure in a lap position at a very young age.

When handling newborn Shih Tzu puppies it is helpful to make "kissing" sounds near their ears. The sound is similar to puppies nursing. Therefore, repetitious kissing offers the same sense of security and comfort for the Shih Tzu puppy.

One of the earliest conditionings a Shih Tzu puppy encounters is being nestled in secure comfort by its dam while being fed warm milk. When you emit the same type of sounds with repetitious kissing the Shih Tzu puppy responds immediately to your stimulation and will feel secure. The Shih Tzu puppy will snuggle rather than struggle and learn to trust humans from a very early period of their lives. This type of conditioning is important for proper development as an adult Shih Tzu and instills a "trusting" of humans rather than a "fear" of humans.

Shih Tzu puppy conditioning beyond diet is a highly important part of a professional Shih Tzu breeder's job, and will often separate the professional breeder from the "backyard" or puppy mill breeders.

Author: Connie Limon. I raise Shih Tzu puppies from top champion bloodlines. Purchase and sign up for our newsletter online at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

About The Author
Connie Limon. I raise Shih Tzu puppies from champion bloodlines standards and teacup/imperials. Purchase online and sign up for our newsletter at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

How To Stop Your Parrot From Biting

"Why is my parrot biting me?"

This is a question asked every day by parrot owners who thought they would never own a bird that bites.

Once you have been bit, it is hard to return comfortably to the biter. At least that's what most people say. It does take a positive mind set and it is best to return with some understanding of the parrot's needs.

Common Causes For Biting

Consider what may be happening from the bird's point of view. Has there been a change in their environment? Is there something in the parrot's recent or distant past that scared him or caused him not to trust you or other humans? Are there unexpected noises or sudden movements when the biting occurs? Could the parrot be jealous of someone or something at the time? Could the bird be angry at you, someone else in the room or even a situation?

Most of the time, the bird will warn you by giving you clues with their body language. The problem is, we don't always speak parrot so we don't recognize the clue they are trying to send to warn us.

Depending on the parrot, they may fluff up their feathers and slightly raise their wings while pining their eyes, they may make a particular noise that sounds like growling or hissing, they may scream, they may open their beak and lunge a warning, and some will just run away.

Besides considering the above, you have to consider the possibility that when one of the things above has happened that the biting behavior has been reinforced by improper responses. The biting may have become a habit that you have to break.

Fear

Fear is the most common reason a bird will attack. You must consider the environment from the parrot's perspective. They don't think like humans and they don't understand our language for us to explain to them why things are the way they are. They didn't ask to come live with us, so the burden is on us to accommodate them.

There are many obvious reasons your parrot could be afraid. A common reason would be if you just brought the bird home and it doesn't know you or where it is. It could be afraid because it was abused or ignored in its previous home or worse, homes.

Imagine someone coming and taking you to their giant home and a bunch of big and little giants moving about your cage, making noises in all kinds of decibels and pitches. They even stare at you and try to put their giant claws on you! Nothing in your cage is the same. The look and smell of this home is even different. And maybe you were hurt by one or more of these giant looking creatures in the past. Are you going to be comfortable? Might you be scared??

Now there is a similarity in humans and parrots in that there are no two alike. Just as some people are outgoing and some are shy. Some people are nervous and scared of everything, and some seem to be brave from birth.

You can help the brave child learn to make wise decisions and respect others, and you can help the nervous child to come outside of themselves and enjoy life, but the core personality will always be there.

We have to do the same with our parrots. We have to help them see the world differently, but we can't make them change their core being. We can train them and encourage proper responses to their environment, but we have to respect them in the process.

Frustration

Many parrots bite because they are frustrated. They want attention and you aren't giving it to them. Maybe they want to play or eat and you won't leave them alone. You may have trained them to be in a particular routine and now you have changed it.

They may be bored in their cage and would like out to play or be with you. Make sure you allow your parrot time out of its cage and give the bird quality attention daily, just like you would want if you were the one locked up in a cage all day. This is even more important if your parrot only has human friends.

There are more possibilities than I will mention. You need to spend the time to figure it out. You owe it to the parrot that you forced into your home. Always keep that in mind.

Hormones

You can sit and think about this one. Both humans and animals have hormonal times, and they all have them at different ages. Some people have more personality difficulties during those times than others. I won't get personal here; just ponder it if you will. Will you accept that your parrot has to go through this too? How did or do you like to be treated when you are going through an emotional time? Enough said??? OK

If your parrot screams because he wants you and then lunges because he's whacked out, then be sweet and talk nicely or give him his favorite treat when he has calmed down. Don't reward the bad behavior, but don't punish the bird for being hormonal. Keep up the relationship as best you can. It won't last forever.

Molting

In order to get you to put yourself in this one, let's pretend that you have to get new teeth every few months. You may not remember how uncomfortable it is for teeth to come in, but you probably have been around a baby that was teething. Again, some take it better than others. Some like their gums rubbed and some don't want you within ten feet of them. Actually they cry because they want you and then they cry because you come. I have never molted, but it does NOT look comfortable. Let's give these guys a little break if they are grumpy.

"Teething" or rather Beaking

Young parrots will often go through a stage where they beak everything. They don't know what we feel when they beak us. We have to communicate to them that it hurts and encourage them not to bite or beak us.

Don't allow your parrot to nibble when it is young and you will deter biting when they are old. There are many ways to deter this behavior.

When my Green Cheeked Conure nibbles me, I squeak like he does when I touch one of his pin feathers coming in that is sensitive. This doesn't work for my husband, because he can't squeak, his voice isn't high enough. He gives the little guy the "earthquake" instead. (The "earthquake" is a very gentle movement of the finger or arm that distracts the bird.)

Now if your little buddy likes the "earthquake" routine, he will bite just to get the ride. You will have to try one of the many other methods.

Some people blow in their faces, I personally don't like that one, but some say it works for them. If you keep a chew toy with you, you can tell them "no" and encourage them to bite the toy. Mine doesn't usually want the toy, he likes the way my finger or neck feels, so this doesn't work for me. He can be distracted by food however.

Make sure you aren't teaching the bird that if he bites you he gets a toy or food! We are talking about a bird that is exploring their environment, not biting you for attention.

Don't give up too fast on any method you choose. Some parrots take a long time to change, again just like kids and adults. Some parrots are more stubborn than others. Patience, love and understanding is the key here.

Selfishness

In humans, selfishness is a character flaw. In parrots however, it is just what they are. We can not expect them to act or respond like humans, even though they do sometimes.

If your parrot is trying to communicate to you "I don't want to come to you, I'm busy right now" then leave him alone unless you have to interact with him. Watch his body language and respect his wishes.

If you miss the signal and he bites you, then try not to react in an excited way. Stay calm and speak sternly. If you entertain the bird with your response, he might selfishly choose this entertainment more often. Think about it.

We put our parrots back in their cage, shut the door and walk out of the room. Some people cover the cage too. My cage takes so long to cover that he would probably forget why he's in there by the time I could get it covered.

If they aren't screaming for our return, we come back in a few minutes and give them another chance…if they want one. We don't force them to come back out.

It is very important that you don't give the bird any attention at all during the "time out" period. Don't talk to the bird, don't look at the bird, act as if the bird doesn't exist. When the time out period is over, give your bird a chance to do something right and reward him. Even if it is that he quit screaming or that he came to the side of the cage when you talked to him.

NEVER EVER hit your parrot or sling your parrot when it bites! It can harm your parrot both physically and emotionally. The bird may never trust you or like you again. He may have a hard time trusting any human again.

If your parrot likes you but bites others, you can help the parrot accept the other person. When your parrot attempts to bite or in fact does bite the other person, you be the one that disciplines them. They don't care if the other person dislikes them, but they do want to please you.

Conclusion

Take the time to study your parrot and learn the nature of its personality. Study its body language and learn its moods. Be sensitive to when they need attention and when they need time alone. Give them the opportunity to just be with you and not have to interact with you if that is what they want.

Take the time to expose your parrot, slowly, to new people, places, objects, sounds and environments. It is unlikely that a parrot that will live 20 to 80 years will never have to leave home or have a different routine. Help your beloved parrot now, to prepare for the unexpected changes later.

About The Author
Tracie Irvine has an informational parrot website and discount supply store for parrot lovers. She encourages parrot owners to send pictures and stories of their birds so people can read them and make an educated decision before taking a parrot home.

Drop by http://www.parrot-and-conure-world.com to read information on most species and view her extensive Parrot Comparison Chart. Send your companion parrot pictures and stories to her site. Who knows how many birds you will save from being re-homed!

Heartworms In Dogs - What They Are & What To Do

Heartworms (Latin name Dirofilaria immitis) are parasitic worms that are common in both dogs and cats. Like their name suggests, they live in the dog's heart, normally free-floating in the right ventricle and nearby blood vessels. The worms are transmitted from dog to dog by mosquitoes which pass the worm larvae through their saliva. The presence of heartworms can be very dangerous to the dog's health. Although the dog will not display signs of infection until it has progressed considerably, heartworms can be life threatening and are sometimes difficult to detect and diagnose.

Signs of Heartworm Infection

When a dog is first infected with heartworms, there are literally no signs and the presence of heartworms can not be detected even with a blood test. Once the worm larva reaches the heart and matures, however, signs that are detectible by X-ray start to develop almost immediately. These include damage to the blood vessels around the heart and lungs. It is rare that a dog will be infected by only one worm and as the mature worms in the heart grow in size and number, the conditions worsen, eventually causing a blockage of blood flow. It is at this point that the dog will start to display physical signs which can include pain, hypertension, difficulty breathing, lethargy or even fainting. In extremely progressed cases the dog can suffer from heart failure and death although by the time the heartworm disease has reached this stage the owner has probably realized that something is going on and sought veterinary care.

Treating Heartworm Infection

Once a dog has been diagnosed as having heartworms, treatment must be started. What this treatment is and how it is administered is dependant on the stage of heartworm infection. Generally, there are four stages of heartworm disease.

• Stage One – Dogs at the lowest risk – heartworms are detected in X-rays but all other tests appear normal.

• Stage Two – Dogs are moderately infected, may have some difficulty breathing and be demonstrating coughing

• Stage Three – Dogs are severely affected & may display weight loss, have difficulty breathing, blood tests likely show kidney and/or liver damage

• Stage Four – Dogs have Vena Cava Syndrome and are in shock, essentially dying – surgery may be undertaken to remove worms, but there is no guarantee that it will save the dog.

When it comes to heartworms in dogs, prevention truly is the best medicine. The best time to begin a preventative treatment is early in puppy-hood, before the dog is seven months old since dogs older than seven months are at a great risk for adverse reactions to the preventative treatments.

About The Author
Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.

Licking Paws Itchy Ears

Dogs who lick their paws a lot and have very itchy ears may be doing this because they are reacting to grains in their diet. (As always check with your vet).

Here are two great recipes for dog treats that are grain free.

Cheese Biscuits
3 cups garbanzo bean flour, plus extra needed for rolling
1 cup cheddar cheese
¼ cup powdered milk
2 tablespoons safflower oil
¾ cup warm water
Grated parmesan cheese for topping
Pre Heat oven to 375°

Mix flour, powdered milk, and cheddar cheese. Add oil and water. Stir into dough. Add some more flour (up to ¼ cup) until dough rolls easily. Turn dough onto lightly floured surface and roll to ¼ to ½ inch thickness. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese. Cut into shapes with cookie cutters and place on ungreased cookie sheet. Store in refrigerator in airtight container.

Liver Crunchies
1 pound ( 2 cups ) beef liver.
2 eggs
1 ½ cups garbanzo bean flour.
½ cup cheddar cheese shredded

Pre Heat oven 300°

Puree liver with eggs in food processor. Add mixture to flour in large bowl and stir in cheese. Turn onto baking sheet covered in grease or non-stick foil. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove from oven and cool, peel off baking sheet and cut into treat size. For soft treats refrigerate treats, for crunchy treats return to oven and bake at 150° for three hours until treats are hard and crunchy. Twice-baked treats can be stored at room temperature.

Article written by Kevin Gawricki

About The Author
Kevin Gawricki is owner of Dog Gone Good Stuff which he founded because of the need for a place that caters specifically to dogs and their owners specific needs. Please feel free to visit Dog Gone Good Stuff for all your dogs needs. Web address http://www.doggonegoodstuff.com.

Cat Owners' Cat Training Books

This article seeks to give you a solid knowledge base regarding the subject matter, no matter what your previous experience on the topic. Cats are wonderful animals! It is remarkable how well these animals have adapted to domesticity. It has been estimated that they have been living in close contact with human beings for approximately 3,500 years.

Not only are they good for pets, but they are also very useful to humans. The ancient Egyptians took care of them to get rid of the mice in their homes. No wonder there have been hundreds and hundreds of books written that are devoted to the subject of these animals. Most of these books have to do with cat training.

Since cats are predatory creatures by instinct; they still exhibit some behaviors that are best suited in the wilderness. This sometimes becomes a problem for people who have cats living in their households. That is why there are a lot of training books that have been written to address various issues concerning cat training.

Different types of training books:

There are various different types of training books that are available in the market. Some deal with the issue of cats' health and their behavior. Some are reference books written by veterinarians. They offer insights and tips on how to properly take care of cats. These types of books can be used as a resource by owners when training their cats.

While other cat training books are categorized according to breed, some give those readers who are seeking to gain more knowledge on a specific breed of cats more extensive, and helpful information.

Where to get these books:

These books can be purchased in local bookstores. They can even be borrowed in libraries. But the most convenient place to get them would be online. There's a wide range of cat training books to choose from in the internet. Rates and reviews of these books are also available. This gives the buyer some insight about the book, helping them decide and pick out exactly the type of cat training book they are looking for.

Who buys these books?

Books on how to train cats are perfect for first time cat owners. These books will offer them the much needed information they need in order to take care of their cats. A lot of cat lovers also have a collection of cat books. Ranging in topics from: breed books, photography, fiction, cat care, training, nutrition, etc.

Cat training books are a perfect companion for any cat owner. Every cat owner should at least have one on their book shelf.

Here are some of the best-selling and truly amazing cat training books that can have one's pet cat do more than meowing and scratching:

1. "Guide to Well-Behaved Cat: A Sound Approach to Cat Training"

The book says it all. It aims to train the cat to behave. Written by Phil Maggiti, this book is packed with rich information and divided into four parts. The first chapter tackles the cat's evolution, while the second is all about its domestication. Design and function of an ordinary cat is discussed in chapter three, while chapter four talks about human-pet relationship topics such as why does a kitty disobey the owner when it is called?

2. "Understanding or Training Your Cat or Kitten"

This acclaimed book is from H. Ellen Whiteley, a veterinarian who understands cats more than an average person does. This book contains 292 pages of important information that can truly make you understand, train and appreciate one's pet cat.

3. "Handbook of Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat"

This book is a collaboration of Gary M. Landsberg, W. Hunthausen and L. Ackerman. Published by Elvesier Health Sciences, this is one of the most reputable books in cat training. Okay, so it is dual purpose - it is about cats and dogs, but it doesn't matter. It is as informative as any other cat training book out there.

From discussing kitten development to suggesting therapy for behavior and diet-related problems, from approaching feline agression to finding out what the "European approach to behavior counseling" is, this book is indeed helpful.

4. "Cat Training in 10 Minutes"

The "Cat Training in 10 Minutes" is 142 pages of quirky information on how to communicate effectively with cats. Written by Miriam Fields-Banineau, a certified cat lover, this guide is easy to read and highly effective. Every cat owner can toilet-train his kitty in just a few reading sessions! It will not be long before the cat also follows the owner's commands! The photographs in the book are very attractive as well.

Nobody says cat training is going to be easy. That's why cat training books are available online so one can get the gist and be the best cat owner in town. We hope that you have found this article interesting and eye catching to say the least. It's objective is to entertain and inform.

About The Author
Ken Charnely is webmaster at two of Internet's popular article directories. For more articles on this topic and for free content for your website visit http://www.articleteller.com/ and http://www.contentwow.com/.