Your Dog Goes Missing

This article, serves as a guide to all dog-owners that wish not to experience the agony and distress of having to deal with the fact that their dog is gone missing. Just read carefully the tips that follow, keeping in mind that your best friend needs an owner who is capable of being proactive as well as encouraging it to catch, fetch, pull, tag and chew. The most important thing to remember is that if your dog gets lost, chances are that someone, somewhere, has seen it. Do not get discouraged and do not panic. Be aware and it is likely that you will be reunited with your beloved companion again, if you follow the instructions listed below and keep yourself organized and prepared at all times.

- Keep an action checklist in a visible location, along with the current phone numbers of emergency contacts, like individuals and organizations you will need to call in case of an emergency. Also keep a copy in your vehicle for when you are traveling.

- Of extreme importance is to keep with this list of contacts a current local street map. It can greatly assist your search in case you need to coordinate a search unit.

- Check frequently your dog to see that he wears his collar. Have a tag attached to the collar with the dog's name and your current home and/or cell phone number. Additionally, always have a current rabies tag and pet license tag attached to your dog's collar. You can find it again sooner by using the engraved tag numbers.

- However, dogs can loose their collars on the streets. For real security, consider putting a microchip implant to your dog and register the chip's number with one of the available registries of your area. If your dog gets stolen or lost and gets dumped or found it can be identified through its microchip ID number. Permanent identification, either that is in the form of a microchip or tattoo, is also useful in case you ever have to prove to law that this dog is indeed yours and you are the one they should return it to.

- Prior to having to deal with any unfortunate event, register your dog to the available services of your area. In most cases registration can be completed online and you will save precious time if something actually happens.

- Ensure you have recent and reliable color photos of your dog that show clearly all your dogs' characteristics, so that you can make a big publicity fuss and make it extremely difficult for thieves to try to keep your dog. Taking pictures annually (maybe something to do on the dog's birthday), is a must. You need to photograph your dog's head and body from different angles (top, front, head shot, side-on, standing, etc.). Focus especially on any special markings your dog might carry.

- Write a simple and clear description of your dog and have it stored in computer's memory-along with the most recent set of photographs-in order to create posters/flyers and publish its disappearance.

- Search in advance and save the webpages of your local animal control authorities for immediate retrieval. This can assist you to immediately publicize its disappearance online through the multiple online services.

- Maintain your garden fence to keep it dog-proof and check frequently the locks on your doors and windows in order to be sure that your dog is safely confined when you leave it alone in the house.

- Guard your dog in your garden and runs. Never allow your dog to roam free in an unfamiliar neighborhood. Leash it at all times. If a dog gets loose in an unfamiliar area its chances of ever finding its way home are particularly small.

- Do not leave your dog tied up outside shops, gyms, classrooms, offices, etc., and do not leave your dog unattended inside your vehicle.

- Be wary of strangers expressing an interest in your dog. Watch out for suspicious characters. You do not have to become overprotective, but at least you have to be aware of the risks. Remember that your dog is your responsibility. Do not leave it to be taken care from friendly strangers.

- If you think you are being followed, do not go straight back home. Try visiting a friend's or neighbor's house, who does not own a dog. Stay at your friend's or neighbor's house for at least half an hour so as to give to the stalker the impression that the house you entered is where the dog actually lives.

About The Author
Kadence Buchanan writes articles for http://ipetcentral.net/ - In addition, Kadence also writes articles for http://supershoppingtips.com/ and http://kidsandteenscentral.com/.

Cat Declawing - The Truth

Cat Declawing

What is the use of cat declawing?

The main reason people decide to declaw their cat is to protect their furniture. An untrained cat’s claws can be very destructive in a home, damaging furniture, curtains and carpets. Cats like (and need) to scratch and claw at wood and rough surfaces, and if they are not properly trained, your furniture will look very inviting to them. Another reason people give for declawing their cat is to prevent the cat from injuring them. Cats use their claws and teeth to defend themselves and to fight. Small children may mishandle a cat and provoke it in scratching them. Some cats also have a more aggressive or nervous nature and will scratch people when they feel threatened.
Cat declawingToxoplasmosis and Bartonellosis are two diseases that can be transmitted from cats. It is important to note though, that those diseases are most likely to be contracted from a litter box, or even from biting – but it is highly unlikely that it will be contracted from cat scratches.

Declawing a cat is a selfish and very drastic solution for problems that could be solved in many other ways and may bring forth much more serious problems. Owners that decide to declaw their cat do this solely for their own comfort and do not take in account the problems that may sprout from doing this.

What does the declawing process involve?

Cat declawing is also known as onychectomy and is a much more complex operation than simply removing your cat’s nails or claws. The declawing operation is in fact the amputation of each of the cat’s toes at the first joint. It involves cutting of the front part of a cat’s toes and means cutting through nerves and muscles and removing bone. This operation is extremely painful (it has been proven to be much more painful than sterilizing or spaying your cat) and it will take a long time to heal. Even after the wounds have healed, the cat may suffer from a series of after-effects.

Are there any disadvantages to declawing your cat?

Yes! There are numerous disadvantages, not only to your cat but to you as cat owner as well. Cat declawing is illegal in many countries around the world and considered as inhumane and as a form of animal abuse and mutilation.

Many people don’t realize just how painful a declawing operation can be. Scientists have proven cat declawing to be extremely painful and even test new painkiller drugs on cats that are being declawed. Although the cat may not show signs of pain outwardly and seem to be content, it will definitely be in a lot of pain after the operation. Big operations or rather amputations like declawing can hold many of the usual dangers related to surgical complications. A lot of vets also only use the minimum amount of painkillers and anesthetics during the operation, and prescribe no painkillers for the recovery process at home. The wounds take several weeks to heal, and the pain may continue months after the operation.

Complications after a declawing operation are also very common. The wounds may become infected or some of the amputated toes can begin to grow back. Some cats may experience lameness and even be crippled. You may notice a declawed cat trying to scratch at surfaces. They reason for this is because it is common for the tendons of the severed joints to detract and cause a constant feeling of stiffness in their paws.

Cats need their claws for balance and also use it to hook their paws on surfaces and stretch themselves. This stretching forms a very important part of the cat’s exercise and muscle toning. A declawed cat will need to learn to walk differently (because it doesn’t have any front joints) and its body weight will rest on their feet which can even cause arthritis.

It is very common for declawed cats to develop behavioral problems. It may develop a fear for its sandbox, because scratching in the sand may be painful. So, instead of having a cat that damages your furniture, you will have a cat that refuses to use its litter box. Also, because it has been deprived of its best means of defense, its claws, it may now revert to using its teeth to protect itself and can start to bite people when feeling threatened.

Declawed cats will also not be able to defend themselves effectively against other cats or dogs and can even die in fights.

Because of these behavioral problems developed after declawing, many cat owners become detached from their cats and may even want to get rid of them.

Professional cat declawing

If you do decide to declaw your cat after all, at least make sure that it is done professionally and with as little discomfort to your cat as possible.

The most developed method of declawing to date is laser declawing. Laser declawing is less painful, because bleeding and swelling is reduced.

Always ensure that your cat or kitten is older than 4 months before declawing. It is also not advisable to declaw cats that are old and not so active anymore, because they will take a longer time to recover.

After the operation, your cat may be kept in the hospital for the night, or a longer period of time depending on the cat. When taking your cat home, try to keep it from getting overexcited and prevent it from jumping or putting heavy strain on its paws. It is common for the paws to start bleeding every now and again, but ask your vet’s advice if the bleeding alarms you.

To minimize the pain your cat can experience when using its sandbox, put newspaper strips in the sandbox. Sand or clay can infect the wounds on the paws or cause pain when “scratching” in the box. After your cat is fully recovered you can replace the sand again. Your cat may not like the newspapers and this can become a messy affair.

Always look out for the following warning signs, and notify your vet if any occur: Swollen paws and frequent bleeding. If your cat display extreme difficulty in standing up or walking after one day.

Alternatives to cat declawing

Before deciding on such a drastic measure or “solution” as declawing your cat, first consider some of the (often more effective) alternatives. The main reason for declawing a cat is to prevent it from damaging your furniture. Scratching is a necessary instinctive habit for removing the dead cells around its claws, practicing balance and stretching and toning muscles.

Cats are highly trainable animals and can be taught to use only a scratching post for these purposes. There are numerous scratching posts or "cat furniture" to choose from, whether your cat likes scratching vertical or horizontal surfaces. You can even buy "cat trees" with attractive objects hanging from the tree to catch your cat’s attention or build your own (just make sure they are stable and won’t fall over on your cat).

To train a cat to use scratching posts, and to discourage it from scratching your furniture, you can place netting or foil over your furniture. When you see your cat trying to scratch your furniture, pick it up and put it down in front of its scratching post.

Nail caps can be applied to a cat’s claws, this need to be applied every 3 to 6 months depending on the cat. Nail caps will prevent damage to your furniture and to yourself while causing almost no inconvenience to your cat (compared to the serious discomfort caused by declawing). You can also trim your cat’s nails frequently to keep it blunt.

For more information about taking care of cats see cat-urine.net/cat_declawing.html
About The Author
Claudine du Plessis is a cat lover and webmaster of http://www.cat-urine.net.

Understanding Your Cat

My cat always talks to me, he always tells me things and not always by meowing. Sometimes he uses his body. Cats have body language just as humans have and I think theirs is much easier to understand.

First and foremost, verbal communication. I just wish I could understand Tigger fully, I wish I could talk to him. I can and do talk to him but its like talking to someone foreign. You don’t really know what they’re saying but you can usually understand what they mean. Its the same with my cat, I can understand him, but I don’t understand the meows.

I know when he wants food, I know when he’s content, I know when he’s angry and I know when he’s on edge or nervous as if something big is in the yard like a dog. He tells me, and I can understand.

I can also tell how he is by his body language. I know to look for the little things, the little signals he is giving me. It is about loving your cat so you understand him (or her).

I can tell when he is frightened, his ears are usually flat against his head and his eyes are wide open. I can tell his pupils are fully dilated which makes his eyes look almost black. His back is arched and his fur is puffed up. This is all to make him look bigger than he is to whatever is scaring him and is common with all domestic cats. His tail is usually swishing from side to side as well and the fur is puffed out on his tail.

It is a different story when he is relaxed and happy. His pupils will be normal sized and his eyes may be fully open or half closed if he is feeling sleepy. His ears are normal, pointing up and slightly forward and his tail will be curved down with the tip of his tail pointing slightly up. He is usually laid on me at this stage and his motor will be running at full blast, that’s what I call his purring, running his motor. I have read that this can be a sign of pain and cats will purr when they are in a lot of pain. My cat has once purred like this when he was hurt badly. I once couldn't coax him off the garage roof and when I got up there to see if he was OK he was purring yet he had a large piece of his skin torn back off one of his hind legs. He sure was glad to see me but boy must he have been in a lot of pain.

Don’t worry I sorted him out and took him to my local veterinarians. Cost me a fortune and I was told to take the dressing off in two days and take him back for the sutures out in a week. Within 3 hours of getting him home he had managed to get the dressing off and eat the sutures. He didn’t like them and wasn’t having them. Still he was fine in a couple of days.

About The Author
Ric Wiley is an established writer and Internet author. His latest site about his relationship with his cat, Tigger, can be found at http://www.love-your-cat.com

What Are Dog Grooming Tools

Why you prefer to go to professional dog groomers and pay high fees for your dog grooming. You can even groom your dog at home , yes really You can do much of the grooming yourself at home and save money at the same time.

This article will let you know all necessary tools that you need for your dog grooming at home.

Dog grooming Hair scissors

Thinning scissors

Dog clippers

Dog/cat toe nail clippers

Dog Nose scissors

Dental scaler

Dog hair pulling forceps

Dog Tweezers

Brush and Comb

Dog grooming scissors:

Most important tools for dog grooming. Dog grooming scissors are usually long blade scissors having 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5" sizes. Scissors are both straight as well as curved. Common size is 8.5". Available in mirror polished, satin and titanium coated finish. These days titanium coated shears are very common because these are not only beautiful, but these shears have long lasting sharpness. Curved shears let you cut corners - literally. They are real time-savers. And, considering that most scissoring is supposed to achieve round or curved surfaces, it seems only natural to use curved shears on dogs ranging from Bichons to Bouviers. Gain experience with these shears by rounding off feet, topknots and tails. Experiment with them in reverse to create angulation above the hock joint. You might even use them to create the arch on some Terriers' eyebrows. Many groomers who have had difficulty shaping round and curved edges seem to have more success when they are using curved shears. Now come to Filipino shears ,these scissors have wider blade than other grooming scissors. These are excellent for cutting bulk hairs. These scissors feature superb smoothness and sharpness.

Thinning scissors:

If your dog has very thick coat of hairs we recommend you to use thinning scissors. Thinning scissors are choice of groomers in hot weather because thinning scissors thin out the heavy coats of hairs giving dogs a cool feel. Thinning shears, in various lengths and styles, constitute "the shears of the '90s" - and they are a necessary part of any groomer's collection. Thinning shears with a 28-teeth blade (or finer) are excellent for finish work and blending. They give coats a soft-edged appearance and produce Schnauzer and Terrier furnishings that look natural. Used to thin over scissored Lhasas and similar breeds with silky, flowing coats, these shears blend in and remove blunt ends. Thinning shears give breeds such as Scotties and Westies a hand-stripped look. They also give trimmed ears and bangs a natural, smooth appearance. They even thin out heavy coats and help to prevent matting in breeds such as Cockers, Afghans, etc,

Nose scissors:

Yes nose is also very important to be cleaned while grooming your dog. Use good pair of nose scissors to remove longer hairs from nose of dogs. These scissors has blunt end , so they won't disturb your dogs. Don't use pointed scissors for removing nose hairs.

Brush and Comb

You need to brush and comb away the dead hairs before bathing your pet as water creates tight matts in the loose hairs. Pets with long coat require brushing almost daily, depending on the condition of its coat. If you exercise your dog in the garden, it is likely to get tangles in its hair. You need to comb out its tangles immediately after exercise to avoid the tangles becoming mats. Brush your pet from top to bottom. Use the right brush for your pet's coat. Get advice from the pet shop if you,re unsure.

Dog clippers

purchase a set of professional dog clippers. Hair clippers for humans will not stand up to the rigors of dog grooming and should not be used. A good set of clippers can cost up to $200.00. Although the initial expense is large, the clippers will pay for themselves quickly. Make sure the animal is completely dry before using the clippers. If you wish to give your dogs specialty cuts like a poodle or a cocker cut, you should follow the directions that come with the clippers. You can also get books that have diagrams on giving special cuts. The clippers come with attachments that cut hair to the desired length for whatever effect you are trying to achieve.

Dog toe nail clippers

Dog nail clippers have 3 shapes. Guillontoin style used for removing and trimming toe nails of medium size and larger breeds. Scissors style clipper is usually used for cat nails. Plier style dog nail clippers are used to trim nails of smaller dogs. Plier style is more common among professional groomers. Care should be exercised with the toe nail clippers as if you cut the nails too short you will nick the vein that runs part way down the nail.

Dog hair pulling forceps and tweezers:

Hair pullers are fundamental tools for good grooming. Allow groomers to remove excess hair from the ear canal and reduce the risk of infections. Also used for removing ticks from pet hairs. Forceps come in curved and straight blades, having locked and unlocked handles. Forceps with polyethylene dipping handles are more commonly used these days because of firm grip and easy working.

Dental scaler

Yes dogs have also plaque problems. You can use Dental scaler, for removing plaque and cleaning teeth of pets.If you are unable to see plaque, then can use dental mirror as well.

You can touch up the grooming every two or three weeks. That way, the general grooming will not be as time consuming as it could be. Depending on how quickly your dog's hair grows, you will need to groom him every month and a half to two months, or more frequently.

Groom your pet well and enjoy its good looks and companionship !

For more information on dog grooming products, visit http://www.venusworldwide.com

About The Author
Armughan Riaz, working as Partner at Venusworldwide, Manufactucturer and exporters of beauty Implements, skin care tools, Manicure products and grooming tools. http://www.venusworldwide.com.

House Training For Your Golden Retriever

When you begin house breaking your golden retriever, you should follow a strict routine. Before your pet is properly trained, it's very important that your gold retriever does not spend too much time outside of it's crate. If your pet is roaming around your home, you should watch it carefully. Don't be upset at your pet if it relieves itself in an unwanted area. Your pet is your responsibility!

Training your golden retriever in your home is almost like training a child. In the morning, show your dog where to go. Designate that one location for relieving him or herself. Once your pet does, praise it. Let your pet know that it has urinated or pooped in the correct place.

While your in this training process, you don't want your pet to roam wherever it wants. Neither do you want to let it outside of it's crate when it wants. When an accident happens too much, it could become a habit. Pet's don't learn from their mistakes too easily. You have act like a parent and guide your pet and avoid these accidents as much as possible. Even though your pet might not fee too comfortable going through this process, it's important that you train your pet right so the good actions become good habits.

If you give him too much freedom, your golden retriever could relieve itself on the floor. This might seem like a small thing. You could always clean up the mess and expect it to not happen so easily again. However, this is a major mistake. After you clean up the urine, you might not think that there's anything there. However, there's a good chance that your dog could smell it. This could trigger the action of peeing. So when he smell that area, your dog may identify this as the normal area to relieve itself. Having your dog relieve itself in the right location is very important.

If possible, it would be a good idea to allow your dog a passage, such as a dog door, to go outside. If you're training your golden retriever to relieve itself outside, you should use a litter box or a wee-wee pad at the designated location. If you don't have a outside passage, having wee-wee pads (also known as underpads) will be sufficient in an indoor environment. These can allow your dog to easily identify where it should go incase it has to go.

The process of house breaking your golden retriever could be time consuming, as well as frustrating. It's important that you praise your dog and follow a strict regiment. Treat him like he's a part of the family. Once your dog is properly trained, things will be much easier. So make sure your pet is properly trained!

About The Author
Charles Amith is a successful Webmaster and publisher of http://GoldenRetrieverWeb.com. Charles provides informative content on taking care of your loved pet, as well as information on house training your golden retriever: http://goldenretrieverweb.com/House-Breaking-Your-Golden-Retriever.php

Adopting A New Puppy

Before rushing out to buy or adopt a puppy it is recommended that you seriously consider the impact this will have on your life. Examine the reasons of your decision. Why do you want a dog? Are there young children in your family? Do you live in a house with a yard or an apartment? How much time do you have to devote to your new puppy? There are many questions to ask yourself before jumping into this decision. Puppies need to be fed, walked, played with and loved. They need a great deal of constant attention. If you don't have the time, please wait until you can devote much of your day to him. As he ages, he will not need as much attention, but like a newborn, your pup needs you. Anyone who thinks they want a dog should step back for awhile and truly understand the impact he will have on their lives.

Not everyone should have a dog! Some people, for whatever reasons, simply do not have the time or the ability to care for a dog. Caring for a dog is a lot of hard work. A dog cannot take care of himself. From the minute he enters your family, you will be responsible for feeding, watering, exercising, training, playing, and sheltering him. A dog is a very social animal.

There are many different breeds of dogs and it is extremely important to choose the correct breed for you and your family. If you choose incorrectly, the dog will be in the SPCA before you know it. After all, there are over 130 breeds officially registered with the AKC. There are sporting dogs, working dogs, hounds, terriers, toy dogs, and nonsporting dogs.

So how do you decide which breed of dog is right for you? Some veterinarians feel that mixed breeds make better family pets because they have calmer temperaments and are less expensive. Others feel that purebreds are much more predictable as far as future temperament and size. A purebred pup allows you predict what he will be like as an adult.

Choose a puppy that reflects your personality. Are you active? Do you like staying at home? Do you like the outdoors? Are you hyper? Are you laid back? Do you work all day? You must choose a breed that will compliment your personality. Also consider your lifestyle. Are you flexible enough to work around your pup's needs? An example: Our family goes on vacation each year to the Outer Banks of North Carolina. We have two Labrador Retrievers that we leave behind for the week. Our two dogs must be kennelled or stay with friends. This can be very expensive and stressful.

In conclusion: Please take time to consider your decision. Choose your breed carefully. Above all else - enjoy the new member of your family.

About The Author
Mary Reid lives in South Carolina. She has done research on all types of dog related supplies and natural dog food diets. At the time of this writing she owns two beautiful Labrador Retrievers, one black and one chocolate. You can find more articles at her webpage http://www.all-natural-pet-and-more.com. She also has a great site on Organic Food, Skincare and Supplements found at http://www.yourorganicchoices.com.

Getting Your German Shepherds Ears Up

Occasionally a German Shepherd puppy will need some help in getting his/her ears to stand up. If new puppy owners glue the ears up-according to instructions and length of time-AND if other dogs at home are not biting the pups ears ....99.9 % of the time the ears will go up.

If you choose not to glue or are not persistent, you will still have a beautiful, wonderful dog but he/she may not look like a GSD. Most will think he/she looks like a mixed breed. I LOVE mixed breeds too! - but for a GSD to 'look like a GSD' he/she needs to have ears up!

We do not recommend the 'old' way to get the ears up which was to 'tape' the ears up. The puppies do not like the tape and a lot of the time will try to get it off; you would have to take the tape off every few days to clean their ears as no air can get into their ears and the pup could get an ear infection; and it takes way more time to do.

We suggest waiting to 'glue' till the pups are 4 1/2 months old. We like to hear from our puppy owners if they have any question about when the time is right to glue ears. If the puppies ears are moving around, up and down, we may advise to wait till the puppy is 5 months to glue. Puppys ears do go up and down while they are teething.

The likelihood is usually that the puppies ears would go up anyway on their own before Puppy is 7 months old but we would rather be sure, not wait, and not take any chances, because it may then be too late! If you wait untill the puppy is 6 months old and they did need help, there may not be enough time left to get them up! The general consensus is that if the puppies ears are not up by the time the pup is 7 months old they will not go up at all. In rare instances though it is still possible to get a pups ears up till they are 1 year old. So if you are reading this and you have an older pup whose ears are down it cant hurt to try! For people who have one of our pups, who's ears need help, we do say to glue at 4 1/2 months old but you will need to start trying to locate the glue around the time Puppy is 4 months old because it could take some time to get it.

If the puppies ears at 4 months old are quite flat, have no base to them and are not moving around at all- up and down- they should be helped to go up sooner. We would say to glue early- at 4 months old which would mean locating the glue even sooner.

Locate Glue: We use Tear Mender Fabric Glue. No other 'fabric glue' will work. It is a really neat glue similar to when one gets like a credit card in the mail and the card is 'glued' to the paper. Slightly rubbery. When wet looks like Elmer's Glue but thinner. Easily peels right off your fingers. It is usually available at Walgreen's Drug Stores, some fabric stores and also some craft shops or some Ace Tru-Value Hardware stores. I recommend using your phone book to call the stores rather than driving all over town as it can be difficult to locate but easy to locate on line. On line purchase will then cost a few dollars more for the shipping. Tear Mender by Val-o-Chicago. Or purchase at Care-a-Lot dog catalogue, 1-800-343-7680 or www.carealot.com item #1768 is 3.99, plus the shipping. A good time to order x-mats, nyla bones and balls too.

If you have been grooming your Puppy and clipping his nails and cleaning your Puppys ears on a regular basis and taught your puppy to sit in front of you while you do that he should sit well for you while you glue his ears with no problem.

HOW TO GLUE: Shake glue well. NEVER pour the glue from the bottle directly on to puppies ears! We recommend putting some of the glue on to a paper plate or piece of note book paper, etc. The ears will be glued together over the puppies head like an Indian tee-pee. Using your finger, put a small amount of glue in a verticle line on the outside/back side of the ear leather- edge of the ear from just slightly above the base to the tip of his ear.(edge on the top of puppies head- over forehead--NOT the outer up and down edges toward pups shoulder sides) Press and hold for 30 seconds even though the glue will appear to hold after about 3 seconds.

Their ears will stay glued for about 1 month. Do not attempt to take them down or 'pull' them apart- prior to their growing out or their coming unglued. If they start to come apart any sooner, and you can tell the ears are not up yet, you would not want to take down the ears if you are able to simply add a bit more glue to the ear with your finger. The ear hair/glue will start to grow out after about 1 month. After the 1 month if the Pups ear hair has almost grown out- to where the ears are almost apart- the remining hair can be carefully trimmed so the ears are unglued. Try not to cut away hardly any of the hair. You want hair there for re-gluing, if neccessary. Leave puppys ears alone (unglued) for 2-3 days to see how they do on their own. If they are not staying up after the 2-3 days then re-glue.

After 1-2 months puppies ears should be up but we have heard of one person that had to glue for 3 1/2 months to get a tip up. Im sure there could be the stubborn case where it could take even longer, but I would not quit - till you talked with your pups Breeder or call me if you can not reach your breeder.

If you have a pup from us whos ears need assistance going up- leave the ears glued up till they come down on their own AND keep in contact with us about length of time to leave them glued.

Do not give up! Persistence - when necessary- will pay off. After the first time you do this it will only take probably less than a minute to glue the ears together one time a month. It is very easy! -if you have taught your puppy to sit still in front of you for grooming!

When you just need to get a 'tip' of an ear up or for standard coat GSD's - you can use a piece of paper towel roll cardboard- cut to smaller shape of the inner ear. It should be bit narrower than his inner ear. It should go almost to the tip of his inner ear.(round the corners of the tall triangle shape). Use just a thin amount of glue around the edges of the cardboard.

If you feel it is necessary, when you are finished gluing there is an Adhesive Remover in the catalogue or from most drug stores. I have never had to use it though.

We always advise people not to let their puppy play unsupervised with other dogs and puppies while the ears are going up- even with out the glue! - as when dogs play they will bite heads, necks, and ears! That could damage the ears causing them to not go up ever. Also if you have glued your puppies ears, rough play could tear apart your puppies glued ears hurting your puppy and leaving no hair to re-glue to.

About The Author
Sandy Ayer
Longhaired German Shepherd breeder and Certified Dog Trainer. http://www.longcoatgermanshepherds.com

Labradors - Their History And Popularity

As origins go, the one of Labradors (or Labrador Retriever as they are more correctly known) is rather remarkable--most people assume that the dog comes from Labrador. This, of course, is inaccurate. This breed's origins start in Newfoundland (the actual name 'Labrador' may come from the Labrador Current found nearby or the Portuguese word 'labrador', meaning laborer). Not so remarkable yet, but the difference between the Retriever's origins and other breeds is that no one is certain what dogs were crossed to create it. Most assume that the Greater Newfoundland played a part, but the rest is speculation. What is known is the instant popularity of the breed.

Just as it is today, the Labrador Retriever was immensely popular. Its versatility, stamina and eagerness to please marked it as the perfect companion for both worker and noble. Fisherman would take these dogs in their boats to retrieve fish that escaped the nets; landowners would use them for hunting parties and as companions. Whatever the situation, the Labrador Retriever seemed more than capable.

That seems to still be the opinion for the Retriever is most popular of all dog breeds. But why? Why the devotion to this particular dog?

It's actually quite simple: Labradors have the unique ability to be workers and playmates. Their sweet natures and loyalty make them ideal for families; their physical abilities make them perfect for those needing help with herding, fishing, hunting, serving as guide dogs, etc. And, with its willingness to do whatever is required of it, this is a breed equally suited for watchdog or traveling companion. It only wants to be with you; the rest is just extra.

With this in mind, many believe the Labrador to be the only dog breed to consider. After all, it is the most popular and how can so many people be wrong? This is never the way to think when preparing to buy a dog--what works for one family may not work for yours. The truth is: despite their multiple advantages, the Labrador is not right for all. It is a highly energetic breed and requires regular exercise and activity.

This is not a dog to simply lock in the yard and say, "Go play!" A Retriever requires time and effort from you. Also, this is not a breed that deals well with separation. Labradors want to be with you... at all times. Whether you're stepping out to get the paper or going to the store, your pet will want to be a part of it. And, since this is not always possible, a Labrador may stoop to tearing or clawing. Not everyone can deal with this. And, if you are looking for a protector, this is not the proper dog. While a Labrador will bark and is fiercely loyal to its owners, it is not an aggressive breed by nature. This type of dog would be more likely to lick a stranger than bite. As watchdogs, they fair better--but, for those seeking something with a stronger temperament, this is not the breed.

Still, if you are looking for a constant companion, this is the perfect dog. Its sweet nature and high intelligence make it easy to train (even if it does have a stubborn streak) and its playful temperament makes for a perfect "family" dog. Labradors are especially good with children and other animals.

The great difficulty in finding a Labrador (after you have decided that it is the right dog for you) is finding a credible breeder. Due to its popularity, Labradors have been the long-time favorites of puppy mills and breeders more interested in selling you a dog, then making sure it's a proper one. These mills do not check for lineage or even diseases. Instead, they breed as many pups as possible for profit.

You must avoid these mills at all costs! The Labrador you would be sold would not--in almost every case--be a healthy, normal pup. Instead, it would be more prone to diseases and temperament complications. You must, instead, seek out reputable breeders who scan for all problems and only produce pups that will be a credit to the breed.

Labradors, while not perfect for everyone, are some of the most versatile and loving dogs. If you find a place for them in your home, they will be devoted to you and your family.

About The Author
Richard Cussons is a a champion for dogs of all breeds and Labradors in particular. You can find out more about Labradors at http://www.labradorsavvy.com/.

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